Is the Stylish Russian Manicure Really Worth the Work? Imagine this: You’ve just entered your neighborhood nail shop and are attempting to decide which service you want. It feels like there is no end to the list. A simple manicure is one option; other options include gel, dip, a whole set of acrylics, extensions, and Builder in a Bottle.What exactly is a Russian manicure, you ask?
Perhaps a friend of yours who had one and raved about how long the look lasted told you about it. There may have been rumors that the method can harm your skin and nails and is not worth the hassle.
Although the Russian manicure has been around for a while, its appeal has lately grown because to TikTok and influencers like Alix Earle, who recently admitted to being a fan to Allure. She stated, “[The nail technician] said they would last for a month.” After almost three weeks, they still look fantastic. I have never had longer nails than they do. (She also distributed the method to her millions of TikTok fans.)
People who claim the Russian manicure “forever changed” their lives and dermatologists who caution against it are at opposite ends of the TikTok debate on the practice.
Will getting a Russian manicure improve your nails permanently? We sought advice from experts in the field, such as multiple manicurists and a board-certified dermatologist.
Introducing the experts:
- Manicurist Mazz Hanna is also the CEO of the Nailing Hollywood agency.
- Manicurist Elle Gerstein practices in both New York City and Long Island, New York.
- Dermatologist in San Francisco with board certification is Caren Campbell, MD.
- Manicurist Sonya Meesh works out of New York City.
In this narrative:
- What is a Russian manicure?
- What is the process of a Russian manicure?
- What benefits and drawbacks come with a Russian manicure?
- The Russian manicure: is it secure?
A Russian manicure: what is it?
Because it doesn’t require soaking, the Russian manicure is also known as a dry or waterless manicure. Before getting your nails done, you usually soak them in a little dish of water to help soften the cuticle and remove any dirt or debris. During a Russian manicure, on the other hand, the nail technician starts cleaning and shaping the nail and cuticle right away by reaching for an electric file.
Manicurist Mazz Hanna states, “The Russian manicure is a technique known for its precise polish application and detailed cuticle work.” The procedure places a strong emphasis on flawless cuticle work. “It works best for people who value precise nail care and would rather visit salons less frequently.”
The manicure, as its name implies, has its roots in Russia and is also rather well-liked throughout Europe.
How does one go about getting a Russian manicure?
Your technician will remove any paint, gel, extensions, etc. from your nails and then use an electric file, a variety of tiny drill bits, and tiny nail cutters to shape the cuticle. The usage of the e-file during the removal process is undoubtedly very familiar to you if you’ve had acrylics or a dip manicure, but the Russian manicure goes one step further.
Manicurist Elle Gerstein explains, “You’re actually exfoliating the skin off the nail plate and lifting up the eponychium.” According to Bolognia, our reliable dermatological textbook, “the cuticle is the eponychium, but some people consider them to be different,” explains San Francisco dermatologist Caren Campbell, MD, who is board-certified. “That’s just semantics, particularly on this subject.”
This method helps close the grow-out gap between your polish and cuticle, as Gerstein says. “It starts underneath, so because it’s pushed under the cuticle, you can literally get two more weeks of wear out of it [most of the time].”
Paint jobs are significantly tighter and more accurate when the nail tech cleans and files the nail and skin so carefully. “Your artist will be able to apply polish closer to your cuticle area if it is cleaner, which will result in a slower grow-out and a cleaner, more polished look for a longer amount of time,” adds Hanna. Although any kind of polish may be used for a Russian manicure, Hanna claims that gel is the most widely used kind.
The other steps of the manicure go as usual: base coat (although many Russian manicures employ a particular base coat), color, and topcoat. The full grooming procedure might take many hours to complete since it is so meticulous and comprehensive.
What benefits and drawbacks come with a Russian manicure? Is the Stylish Russian Manicure Really Worth the Work?
Those who have tried the method usually talk about how clean and easy it looks, and how long they can go between manicures—up to a month. Russian manicures “offer a polished, long-lasting look, so I highly recommend them,” Hanna adds. “The chance of the polish chipping and lifting is reduced by making sure the prep work is perfect.”
The Russian manicure, in the opinion of some nail technicians, requires more effort than it is worth. Manicurist Sonya Meesh adds, “I don’t usually do them,” describing the procedure as “time-consuming” and “unnecessary for good retention.”
Meesh dislikes the way a Russian manicure looks on her own and cautions against having your cuticle and eponychium grow out too quickly, especially if your nail artist is inexperienced with the style. “I think it appears highly artificial since the [manicurist] might have gone too far in eliminating the eponychium,” the person remarks.
The Russian manicure: is it secure?
Yes, watching Russian manicures on TikTok is entertaining (the close-ups of carefully clipped and sanded cuticles are peak-beauty ASMR), but is this rigorous nail care healthy for your own nails?
Considering that the nail technician is extracting little portions of your skin, mastering the procedure is crucial. Gerstein advises against scheduling a Russian manicure with a person you met on Instagram or TikTok without first doing some investigation. She explains, “This isn’t an art that anybody can just do,” adding that years of practice are necessary. Before they may provide the service, manicurists at certain salons must complete a rigorous training program. It’s never a bad idea to inquire about the salon’s licensure and accreditation or to get a reference from a previous client if safety concerns are present.
Additionally, Gerstein cautions that some of the content on Instagram can be manipulated or appear too wonderful to be true. “You can use a hashtag to indicate that someone is getting a Russian manicure, but they’re not doing it safely.” Make sure your nail tech is using a freshly opened set or that the tools have been sterilized before your visit.
If you’ve ever had a manicure and unintentionally got a little cut from an e-file, you understand how painful those are. Gerstein states that you should never, ever experience pain when having your nails done. Therefore, if you’re giggling during a Russian manicure due to unintentional cuts, drill bit nicks, or forceful cuticle pressing, something isn’t quite right. “Stand up and go,” she commands. “This manicure doesn’t hurt. When you’re through, it should almost feel like a breath of fresh air.
The cuticle acts as a barrier between the nail and the skin, preventing infections, hence the American Academy of Dermatology Association advises against removing or trimming the cuticle. According to Dr. Campbell, “Cuticle removal is not recommended from an overall nail health perspective.” Although it appears more aesthetically beautiful, our cuticles have a function.
A Russian manicure involves filing and slicing away the cuticle and eponychium, which exposes the nail, skin, and soft tissue to germs or fungus and may result in paronychia. To treat paronychia, which manifests as red, painful, and swollen skin surrounding the nail and cuticle, a dermatologist will prescribe an antibiotic or an antifungal lotion.
While nail art trends change with time—particularly those influenced by social media—nail safety never goes out of style. If done by a qualified expert, the Russian manicure looks stunning and is a good alternative for your nail care regimen. Never be scared to speak out or stop the service, though, if something doesn’t feel right. A popular TikTok video is not as valuable as the state of your nails.
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